The story a hand holds

HASAN ABDAL- Amidst the busy market and narrow lanes of Hasan Abdal, a small grey gate encompasses the entrance to the historical treasure as well as religious place that lies behind it. Gurdwara, Panja Sahib, lies in the heart of Hasan Abdal right opposite to Chilla Gah (meditation area) of a Muslim saint. This Gurdwara is at 48 km distance from Rawalpindi.

The event that shaped the current importance of this place occurred in 1521 AD when Guru Nanak, the founder of Sikhism, reached Hasan Abdal along with his devotees Bhai Mardana Ji ( a Muslim) and Bala (a Sikh). They started reciting Kirtan ( a religious performance of Sikhs) which happened to annoy a local saint, Hazrat Shah Wali Qandhari.

"Thirsty Mardana was sent by Guru Nanak to Hazrat Wali to get some water but Hazrat Wali refused him thrice because being a Muslim he was serving a Sikh, Madan Lal Baloch, a Sikh visitor from Kohat, said. “Guru Nanak then threw a stone due to which Hazrat Wali's water came dripping down. In return, Hazrat Wali rolled a huge stone towards Guru Nanak which he stopped with his hand (panja).”

The hand impression engraved on a stone with water running beneath it, became the identity of this place. This rock sits right outside the Gurdwara in the middle of the spring.

The hand impression of Guru Nanak

The brightly white colored domes polished with yellow carvings enhance the beauty of the Gurdwara. The floor being covered with marble tiles, bears the names of those who laid them along with the prices of the tiles.

Before entering the main Gurdwara, shoes are to be taken off and feet cleansed in a stream of water.

It is necessary for all genders to cover their heads before entering the main room of worship.

The tiled path leads to the room with ceilings adorned with intricate patterns of colored glass-works while a chandelier hangs from the roof right in the center.

In this room lies the sacred book of Sikhs known as Guru Granth Sahib, placed on a cushion covered with clean sheets.

The worship hall

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"The room is kept warm in winters, and cold in summers since

Sikhs believe their book is still alive spiritually in present world."

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Guru Granth Sahib was completed in 230 years after over 10 visits of Guru Nanak. It is read for 48 hours straight- known as the Akhand Path.

‘’The room is kept warm in winters, and cold in summers since Sikhs believe their book is still alive spiritually in present world,” said Malik Aqeel, a management staff member of Gurdwara Panja Sahib.

A Sikh who enters the room prostates before the book and supplicate (Urdas/Dua). After offering prayer, they take a bite from the Karah Parshad, a halwa/sweet made with equal portions of whole wheat flour, butter and sugar. Every believer has to give 10 percent from his salary for charity. This charity is known as Daswand, which is collected in a box placed right next to the book.

In front of the Guru Granth Sahib lie three religious symbols, plated in gold and written in Gurmukhi (language of Sikhs). This symbol appears at the beginning of the Sikh scripture which is read as 'Ik Onkar'-it means God is one. Along with symbols, Nishan Sahib (orange colored triangular flag) is hoisted at flag pole and it is considered to be the representative of Sikhism. This orange flag is present at each and every Gurdwara. It bears a symbol of two-edged dagger, known as Khanda.

Central tenet of Sikhism

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"My duty is to make parshad (food) two times a day: at 5 in the morning and 5 in the evening. The food is distributed among the visitors and staff members."

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Jai Jai Kaar was being sung and played on a harmonium by a bunch of children, right outside the door of Gurdwara. They called it 'Shabad'.

"We have been singing, and playing this instrument since a tender age,” said 14-year-old Harvinder Singh.

Harvinder believes this skill will help him and the rest of his friends financially in the future.

A look down from the place where children were playing and singing, an old man name Patvand Singh was seen distributing Kehwa (hot drink) among the visitors.

"My duty is to make parshad (food) two times a day: at 5 in the morning and 5 in the evening. The food is distributed among the visitors and staff members", said Patvand Singh, a worker at Gurdwara.

Right in front of the Gurdwara- is a dining hall that provides food to visitors and residents both.

Statues of two Sikhs are present on right and left corners of the door that symbolize an important event in history, known as Saka Panja Sahib.

"Long before partition, a train carrying Sikh prisoners wasn't allowed to stop at Hasan Abdal station for prashad. In protest, two Sikh brothers, Karam Singh and Pratap Singh lied down on the railway track," said Sandeep Khurana, a staff member of the Gurdwara.

Statues of Karam and Pratap Singh

This led to their martyrdom, Mr. Khurana said.

For the visitors, the managerial staff of Panja Sahib hosts more than 600 rooms free of cost, especially on the occasion of Baisakhi Mela, which is celebrated on 13th and 14th of April.

"Arrangements for pilgrims are made every year on the event of Baisakhi at Panja Sahib. Different food stalls selling chips, jalebis, pakoras and other snacks are set up there, too," said Mr. Aqeel.

Four main events are celebrated every year in the Gurdwara; Baisakhi in April, the birth of Guru Nanak in November, Ranjit Singh mela in June and Joti Joot in July.

To know more about Baisakhi Mela, watch: https://youtu.be/QA3PPTj4pNY

Apart from local areas of Pakistan like Karachi, Sialkot, Kohat, Mardan and Lahore; most visitors come from India and special arrangements are made for their arrival.

Dr. Muhammad Ali, who is a doctor at Gurdwara, said that at least six ambulances from Punjab government and Red Cross are present at these events, and almost 3000 police officers are on duty in Panja Sahib. Free transport and food is also provided to the pilgrims and they are taken special care of.

"Pakistan-India animosity affects the number of visitors coming from India. Almost 3000 yatris (Sikh visitors) were expected this November, but only 2000 could make it to Hasan Abdal due to surgical strikes on LoC, " said Asmat Ullah, who is a caretaker at Gurdwara.

Hostels of Gurdwara

According to Mr. Asmat, 500 yatris were banned from coming to Pakistan by Indian government after they had been granted with a Pakistani visa. Who only after many protests were allowed to visit the holy place.

Panja Sahib is a place of significance for Sikhs because of its sanctity and its rich history. The Gurdwara not only unites people of different religions, but brings together different countries as well.